August 18 Port Angeles

Tomorrow is "haul out" date for us. We arrived back here last Saturday just in time for a short visit with daughter Cindy and the grandkids..."but Grandpa why are you too tired to take us out for a ride"...Grandpa used the excuse of not having the kiddy lifejackets on board but I knew even if he had them he was a bit tired.

Already have our boat trailer hooked to the truck and our special permit in hand for permission to make a spectacle of ourselves...but hey, it works and the boat ends up dry, warm and protected inside the storage unit for the winter. We even have a friend who comes over with a forklift to manipulate the boat so it will go under the 14' garage door without damaging anything. We do have to remove the tug boat "stack" but Gary is getting real good at it...practice makes perfect.

I will try to post more after we get home this weekend but right now I am pretty tired so will sign off.

Old Bro and his tired old lady

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August 13 Telegraph Harbor Marina, Thetis Island

It seems so long ago when we started North from here after spending an enjoyable Memorial Day weekend with our yacht club.

We had a very nice cruise this morning from Nanaimo south through Dodd Narrows. We timed it perfectly to arrive at the narrows right at slack so our passage was as smooth as could be...maybe I have learned a lot in this trip about the importance of studying up and "playing by the rules" which I am learning have been generously shared with us by those who have traveled before and learned by trial and error. Gary jokes with me about the number of cruising guide books we have aboard but they have been well used on this trip and a valuable asset regardless of the space they take up.

Today was so very beautiful that it was difficult not to just cruise on South as we are beginning to feel the magnetic pull of the familiar and known entity of Port Angeles...not to mention the fact that our grandkids are visiting in Port Angeles this weekend as well. Instead we settled in here at Telegraph Harbor and agreed that we will make an early morning "run" tomorrow and hopefully tie up in Port Angeles sometime early tomorrow afternoon.

We have already called ahead and obtained moorage assignment in a good spot for the cleaning and tasks we need to accomplish on the boat over the next week or two before we do our winter haul out. We will be on the East side of the harbor in slip E 14 and hope to see some of you stop by and say HI. We promise not to put a cleaning rag or polishing mit in your hands but hope you will stop by to welome us back and visit while we work and before we head south.

In the 14 weeks since we cruised out of Port Angeles, we have had a fantastic time but really missed you our good friends!

Gary & Linda
still Old Bro and his Old Lady

Editorial disclaimer from the "Old Lady"...those of you who have been following along with this web log or "blog" as it is called have only really gotten the basics and my personal view of the venture which we have been on. Now you can use that as a springboard to discussions with Gary for his outlook on our experiences...lots of new stories to tell!

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August 12 Nanaimo

Alarm went off at 5 AM and that meant it was time to listen to Marine weather and see what the winds were predicted to do.

The forecast was for moderate winds easing to light and variable so we decided to make a "run" for it towards Nanaimo.

I had been up until midnight the prior evening reading up on the Straits of Georgia and variables of current that could complicate a day ofotherwise OK weather. When you are covering a lot of distance in one day there are just that many more variables and possibilities.

This is how it played out. We left early to avoid the summer northwesterly winds that typically come up later in the day. Consequently leaving Campbell River we were just 90 minutes before a maximum flood current of 7.5 knots just up the channel from there. It literally took "forever" to battle the pull of the current until we were out beyond Cape Mudge and it eased off. At one point the reliable Cummins diesel fluctuated it's hum a bit and made us each look at each other like...this is NOT the time to be drifting in Discovery channel...humm wonder why no other boats were out there???

Once past Cape Mudge we started catching the swells and waves from the "reach" back up the Straits. It was uncomfortable but tolerable. Hugging the shore of Vancouver Island, finally we tucked in behind islands and the swells settled down a bit.

About then we got to just North of Cape Lazo where the tides come together...i.e. north of there the incoming tides go north and south of there it goes south...makes for really "confused" water, not to mention the boaters on the water.

To "fast forward to the end of the story" by 3 pm we were overjoyed to pull into Nanaimo and find moorage available. We have already called ahead to reserve a piece of the dock at our favorite Telegraph Harbor on Thetis Island. With the higher gas prices we are finding the marinas closer to populated areas are much busier...people are not traveling as far away this year.

We called ahead to Village Marine in Seattle to try to arrange for their technician to work on our watermaker. Found out he is going to be in Port Angeles and can work on it on the 18th. After Gary hung up from talking with them, I said 18th of September...right? Well we double checked with them and it is the 18th of August so we need now to "boogie" and make sure we get across the foggy straits of Juan de Fuca in time to make that appointment.

Not a problem, I think we were both wearing down from the trip but neither one of us wanted to say "Uncle"...now we can blame it on the water maker technician...but in reality be glad to get back. Still lots of tasks to be tended to before we can put "Old Bro" away for the winter...plus we can squeeze in a Yacht Club meeting and catch up with our Port Angeles friends before we become Oregonians again. My daughter has done such a good job at watching for important stuff in our mail that perhaps I'll have to "hire" her permanent.

Dinner tonight was typical Nanaimo style...fish and chips on the dock accompanied by a gentleman singing to his guitar music and a "retired hippy" type playing the spoons while she sung along...she was nice enough to wait until we were done eating with them!

Yes we are still weird and wonderful...

Old Bro and his Old Lady

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July 31 Sullivan Bay

Yes, we survived the stresses of the Queen Charlotte Sound this morning. It was one of those days that seemed it would not end.

We were struggling with seas of 6 to 10 feet the majority of the 8 hour trip. At times we were able to take them at 45 degree angle but occasionally we would get a stray one abeam which is very unsettling. We were in good company during the most critical portion as we "buddied up" and travelled with two other larger boats from Sequim...the "R Turn" and "Island Star III".

We are now very happy to be in the comfortable facilities at Sullivan Bay. We had dinner out tonight with new friends we have made from Bellingham. Anyone who has been here before will be surprised to know that Sullivan Bay had build and opened a brand new restaurant. It was very good and reasonably priced.

We will stay here at least 3 nights before we move on. We have decided that we will spend the next 4 to 6 weeks spending multiple days at some of Gary's favorite resort stops from last year's yacht club trip...as opposed to trying to move around a lot and not spend any quality time anywhere...if you read between the lines that we are getting tired...you are right. We have done so many different things over the past 3 months...we are still having a lot of fun but it is time to slow down a bit more.

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July 30 Duncanby Landing, Rivers Inlet, BC

Depending on which direction you are traveling, this is either the first or last stop after crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. Their ad in Waggoner Cruising Guide says "our historic pier and boardwalk buildings are a snapshot of bygone days"...amen...I will agree with that statement. Gary restrained me from my usual tour of the docks to view the boats for fear of my safety...yeah he did not want to have to pull me out of the water again!

Speaking as one of advancing age...appearance is not everything...this "landing" is VERY rustic but it meets our current need which is a secure place to wait out the weather in the Queen Charlotte Sound. We are not alone as there are about 14 other boats here hanging around listening to the weather forecast and wind/wave reports. It looks like we may keep each other company for at least a few days.

Several of the boats are extra sensitive to the sea conditions as they are towing elaborate fishing skiffs. We sure are glad that is not our situation this year (as we were doing last year) because it would have complicated our trip beyond endurance.

We were surprised that there are even a couple boats here from Sequim...small world.

Our trip down from Ocean Falls this morning was OK. We started at 4:45 which was really not enough daylight but it got us here by noon and before the winds really picked up. There were very few other pleasure craft out this AM but LOTS of commercial seiners stringing their nets everywhere in front of our path. Made for a very interesting morning spotting them in the water and then working to maneuver around them. That could really tangle up our day to run into one. We have heard that the commercial catch has not been that good so the commercial fishing fleet are really scrambling to make ends meet.

Beautiful weather here. It had been very humid in Ocean Falls complete with lots of bugs. So far that is not a problem here.

Just got finished plotting out our course from here to Sullivan Bay so we will be ready when the weather window is available. It will be nice to be back into more familiar territory and on the other side of these momentous "crossings" of exposed water.

Nuff for now...time to wake Gary from his nap...don't tell him I told you his secret!

Linda

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August 1 FYI Fuelish Data Summary

Inquiring minds often ask, so for those of you interested in the fuel side of our trip, here it is to date:

Since we left Port Angeles we have logged 268 hours on our Cummins Diesel and 110 hours on our generator.

Between the two we have consumed 908 gallons of diesel at an average cost of $2.21 per gallon. Total fuel expense then is $2,011 fora trip of just under 2,500 miles.

Thus far our most expensive diesel was our purchase at Chatham cannery which was $3.10 per gallon. Least expensive was Port Angeles at $1.68 (in April)...followed by $1.85 and $1.87 in Ketchikan (once in June and once in July).

Our floscan over the entire trip totaled 903.5 gallons, just 3.3 gallons off from the actual...pretty amazing...and we use it onstantly as a guideline to our most efficient operating RPM.

Now that I have put all but Jerry Noeske to sleep I will say nuff for now.

Linda...still Old Bro's Old Lady

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August 9 Minstrel Island

Everyone had encouraged us to go to Lagoon Cove rather than Minstrel Island but we were gravitating away from the crowds we had heard about lately at Lagoon Cove so we went to Minstrel.

Minstrel was everything that we had been told about...run down buildings, dilapidated docks, deserted facilities, right down to the dead flies on the windowsill of the dining room! To think at one time it had a dance hall, hotel, red light district, and was the center of logging activity for the area.

However, in my own positive spin, the cup was not half empty but half full and we were able to catch up by doing two loads of laundry, check our internet on their very sllloooowwww connection, purchase a few boxes of our favorite snack (cereal), have an "OK" cheeseburger and get a good night's sleep before leaving very early the next morning.

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August 3 Tranquility in Kwatsi Bay

This is our second night at a lovely, friendly, rustic "resort" on floats. The floats are
rather "primitive" but the people are hardworking and enthusiastic about making your stay enjoyable. The young couple who live here are building their home and livelihood one step at a time. Each year they add a bit more. They have showers but they are located in a cozy little building out on the dock. They operate a small gift shop on the dock where they specialize in local crafts and quality shirts with their resort logos. The floats are primitive but safe and the setting is very sheltered.

Since their season is short they maximize their revenue by fitting in every single boat they possibly can.

We are moored in what they call their "honeymoon suite" right behind the little gift shop building, up close to the shore and right below a waterfall that drifts down through the forest and rock ledges behind us. Quite a peaceful setting. I told Gary I slept the best last night of the whole trip. It may have also been the refreshing rainfall we had late in the evening, but I sure felt good today...he may never get me to leave here!

Last night we met with other boaters on the dock for a very informal potluck, tonight it was a community "happy hour". Their potlucks here are so informal that they never know what or if anyone is bringing something. They told us about the time they ended up with no main dishes, just salad and desert...yum!

Today Gary sat and watched as a loon sat in a tree preening himself, pulling out loose feathers. Gary was sure the loon had pulled out enough to make a down comforter. Many peaceful hours spent just relaxing and listening to the waterfall "babble" in the background. They welcome the rainfall here as it "feeds" the waterfall and today we can see it cascading above us where yesterday it was nearly dried up.


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August 10 Campbell River

We were up and away from the dock at 5:30 AM ready to "boogie". The weather was predicted to get crappy and we had decided to see how far south we could get if we just made a long day of it. The water was smooth as glass this morning and we had the tide with us all day. Chattam narrows was a cinch, Johnstone Straits stayed calm and low and behold we were within reach of Sergis Narrows two hours BEFORE the recommended "high slack". We just idled and the current carried us along at 4.5 knots for the last 90 minutes before getting into the rapids. It was great and our fuel consumption was remarkable for the hours operating.

It is 5 pm and we are exhausted but it sure feels good now that we are moored here in Campbell River with excellent power, water, showers, grocery, marine supply and, oh yes, Gary just reminded me Boston Pizza. It is his one big splurge and has not seemed to stall the weight he has been losing consistently this summer.

Not sure with our boogie today if this means we will be back in Port Angeles sooner or not...we just started to get tired and decided it was better to be closer to home style facilities.

Greetings to all,
Old Bro and his tanned old lady

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August 9 Minstel Island

Well we finally had to literally "tear" ourselves away from Kwatsi Bay which has been such a beautiful place. We had taken the opportunity to really kickback and relax. Each day brought beautiful blue skies and sunshine but at least enough rainfall to continue to replenish the beautiful waterfall that starts high in the mountains above the dock. They have a trail you can take to walk and see more of the falls but yesterday one group ventured on it and came face to face with a cougar that was not budging and was not even scared off by the blare of a boat air horn. He was a threat to be taken seriously so we were not even tempted to venture that direction and the owners kept close track of their children lest the cougar come any closer to their home which is ashore.

We had gotten so well acquainted with the owners and their children that we felt we could just take up permanent residence but finally came to our senses. Each night they have either a potluck dinner or "happy hour" on the dock and it brings together the boaters who might otherwise keep to themselves. A good time was had by all and we were "exposed" to all sizes of boats and a variety of boating enthusiasts.

We encountered some old acquaintances who we did not expect to see out boating. Joe Baxter and his wife Cree are now living full time aboard their 42 foot sailing vessel the "Moosenose". I met Joe when he and I worked at Daishowa paper mill several years ago. A lot of time has passed and it was good to refresh the friendship and get to know him in a more relaxed setting. Joe and I sat and compared medical histories and found we were both working on the short list of the things that still worked rather than dwelling on the things that do not.

We will be just one night here at Minstrel and then move on south slowly working our way through more familiary waters to the inevitable homecoming (sometime in September). We say homecoming but it will be an arrival in Port Angeles with a list of projects to get done cleaning the boat before we put her away for the winter "hibernation".

Old Bro and his Old Lady

August 7 Kwatsi Bay Honeymoon Suite

There is a whole story to why the space we have occupied at Gary's favorite "Kwatsi Bay" is called the "honeymoon suite" but I am currently very limited for online time...using satellite internet at the moment...so I will leave you guessing.

Suffice it to say this is out 6th day here and we are very relaxed and enjoying the daily influx and outflux of very friendly people as well as the residents who own this lovely spot of tranquility in northern BC.

More later when I get to better connections...just wanted to make some update to the blog for now.

Hope all is well with everyone else...thinking of my daughter Cindy who will be in a Portland walking/run tomorrow...Good luck Cindy...love ya...MOM

July 27 Ocean Falls...a ghost town on the BC Coast

From a distance Ocean Falls appears to be a large town at the head of Cousins Inlet. There is a large dam behind it with very impressive spillways as a backdrop. In front of the spillways, you see the docks, plus a hugh mill and to the left of the mill are tall, modern buildings. It is only after you land and walk uptown that you realize most of the buildings are empty, and the north coast wind is whistling through their open or broken windows.

Until it closed in 1973, the Crown Zellerbach mill was the second largest on the coast and Ocean Falls was a busy community of more than 5,000. When Crown Z gave up the mill, the province, unwilling to lost the jobs tried to run it. In 1980 it too gave up. The mill's machinery was removed, and in 1986 bulldozers came to level the town. The town's residents stood in front of the bulldozers and backed them down, though not until many of the houses and buildings had been destroyed.

Downtown was largely spared. Imposing buildings are chained shut and signs warn trespassers...we poked our way around and found signs of days gone by...the flutter of curtains in a broken window, rusting laundry appliances, an abandoned elevator stripped of it's fancy interior, asbestos insulation hanging from ceilings, plumbing fixtures removed and then abandoned.

We met the unofficial town historian, Norman Brown or "Nearly Normal Norman Brown" as he is called. He is bearded, scraggled but patrols town on his bicycle sharing stores. In the old co-op building he has a collection of historical artifacts collected from the abandoned buildings...old signs, furniture, chess sets, box games, old cash registers, manual typewriters, a school bus, lamps, glassware, etc...an antique dealer's treasure hidden away.

We walked up above the dam to see the lake and discovered the remains of the housing districts now destroyed and gone to ruin.

There are less than 100 residents now but they are hearty souls working to capitalize on the beauty of the setting and quality of life. Once a week they have a BC ferry come through and a barge brings in groceries periodically. We walked 2 miles down the road to their " Wal Mart" as Gary called it. In a private residence of less than 800 sq feet they have filled every nook and cranny with odds and ends of grocery stuff and household necessities. Prices were reasonable but there was not much there. There is contract logging underway nearby so they have reopened the previous small hospital as a dormitory with cafeteria for the workers. There's a cafe in the back room of the town church, aptly names the "Holy Grill". One nice lodge has been renovated and is run on a seasonal basis.

This is definitely a ghost town that would like to come back to life if they could only find a new industry to drive it. We are enjoying our visit here and have found this to be a "must see" on our recommendations for anyone venturing up here.